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It would just be a gimmick if the quality of the food on offer wasn't generally so good - despite the absence of a yum cha trolley.

There are simple lists of har gow, shumai of pork and beef, and Shanghai dumplings. These come filled with pork or chicken, their tops twisted and crimped. They are not the soupy kind, but delicious all the same, with a delicate pasta skin.

The prawn and crab har gow is even better. The thin, translucent cornstarch wrapping has just the right amount of cling to the roof of the mouth. It is filled with a heavily larded seafood mousse and the undulating backs of several prawns laid side by side. The lamb jiao-zi is also a popular hit.

You should also try the bean curd rolls, even if you usually avoid this wrapping with the texture of a well-tanned nonagenarian's skin. Here it comes soft and pliable, loosely wrapped around fillings such as pork, prawns and threads of cellophane noodles, all dressed with a spoon of the protein's cooking stock. We'd also praise a compact bullet of Shanghainese sticky rice which forms a chewy crust around pickled greens.